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Deadheading Is Not The Same As Pruning

Deadheading roses, not to be confused with pruning, is the removal of spent blooms. As a general rule once a plant has bloomed, the spent flower and a small section of the stem is removed from the plant. Today we understand the importance of keeping as much foliage as possible, instead of cutting down to a 5-leaflet leaf. The older technique removed too many leaves, which are essential for the process of photosynthesis. Plants need leaves to stimulate healthy growth.

Evaluate The Plant

Before deadheading, take a few minutes to evaluate the plant. A strong, mature rose can tolerate a more drastic cutting than new vulnerable plants. The newer your plant, the more foliage it needs to continue producing.

A rose produces fruit – the rose hip – after blooming. Fruit production saps energy from a plant; deadheading halts the process and tricks the plant into trying to produce more fruit by making flowers

The Cutting

The trimming or cutting will be done with pruners, make sure to have a well-sharpened, clean pair of pruners for the job. The stem will be cut, below the bloom, at an angle. Do not cut too close to budding leaves or nodes which indicate new growth. Use white glue or a chemical sealant on the new cut to seal it and prevent bugs from attacking rose plants.

Familiarize Yourself With Your Variety

Deadheading should be tailored to the variety of rose; multiple bloomers require a different approach from one-time blooming plants. Antique roses grow flowers in clusters, with more than one cluster per stem, or cane. Cut off the dead blooms of the first or upper most bloom, leaving the second one to continue flowering. This gives the newer flowers more nutrients and energy. After the second set has faded, follow the procedures for deadheading again.

For single blooming flowers deadheading is still important to keep deter bugs which host on dead flowers.

Deadheading will be done throughout the spring and summer, depending on the zone and blossoming conditions. The procedure usually results in new plant growth, desired in warm weather but potentially damaging for roses in winter. As fall approaches and the first frost is anticipated, deadheading is no longer important. The gardener wants to encourage the plant to harden and slow or stop growth over the winter months.

Strong plants will reward their owners with an abundance of green leaves and lovely flowers. Deadheading roses, treating them well, and feeding them on a regular schedule are a part of good gardening techniques.

Getting Started

Begin by selecting the roses from which cuttings will be taken. Next, pick the location for these new plants; a sunny, yet sheltered spot, is preferable – a sunroom, or under the eaves of a building would be well suited. Before proceeding, gather materials together: pruners, good potting soil, a prepared spot for root cuttings, root medium, and rooting hormones.

The Cutting

Take the selected rose and make a clean cut at a 45 degree angle on the stem of the plant. The selected cutting should be anywhere from 6 to 8 inches in length, and ideally have at least one healthy cluster of leaves. If you can’t continue with the preparation and planting, be sure to store the prepared stem in a cool moist place until ready to proceed.

Stripping The Rose

The next step is to ready the stem for planting. First, strip the bottom half of your new rose, removing leaves and gently peeling or scraping the top layer of bark down to the cambium layer. The cambium is a delicate pale green layer right under the bark. Keep the foliage on the top half of your new root cutting.

Skinny Dipping

Help your new rose by dipping the exposed stem bottom in a rooting hormone, it will boost the success rate of your cutting. Then dip the end in a rooting medium before inserting in the bed or container.

After The Treatment

After treating the stem, it will be planted in a prepared soil, moistened slightly, and aerated. Propagation has a higher success rate when cuttings remain in a high-humidity environment. The new plant can be planted in the prepared soil, either in a garden bed, a pot or container, or placed in a large zippered plastic bag with soil.

When using the plastic bag, insert a few stakes to keep the bag from collapsing on the plant and crushing delicate leaves. An ideal environment can be created in beds or pots by placing a large mason glass jar or liter soda bottle over the plant. To use a soda bottle, keep the cap on the bottle and cut off the bottom of the bottle, then place over the plant.

Monitor The Rose

The plants will need constant humidity. Monitor the soil to keep it slightly moist. Many gardeners place a new cutting in a large Styrofoam cup which is then inserted in the prepared soil. It requires more attention for watering but will protect roots during transplanting later in the growing season.

The new plants will need to be monitored to maintain a steady, constant temperature during this crucial time of root development. If the plant develops buds, remove them to encourage the plant to establish a strong root system. Roots may take up to eight weeks to grow sufficiently for transplanting. Do not expect to see flowers in the first year; the plant’s energy should be focused on cane production and foliage.